While I was visiting jinja in Tokyo to make the final checks for my upcoming book (it takes you round six jinja in Tokyo to explain the history and cultural background of Shinto), I came across this jinja.
As you can see, it is quite small. Despite the sacred forest being one tree, it still manages to dwarf the sanctuary, and completely hide it from view if you stand in the right place.
The precincts are so narrow that the torii has to be placed sideways on to the sanctuary, because there is no space for it across the “path”. Now, it is true that there are several jinja at which the sacred path turns through 90º before reaching the sanctuary, but it is normally possible to continue walking after passing through the torii.
The sanctuary has an offering of water, which means someone is putting it out, and some ceramic foxes as koma-inu. The standard thing to say here is “wow! Japan is so safe! They do not get stolen or vandalised!”, but that’s probably not quite true. What is true is that theft and vandalism are sufficiently rare to make it sensible for the people who look after the jinja to replace them when that happens. Which is still pretty impressive, to be honest.
The name of the jinja, “Shōwa Inari Jinja”, suggests that it was established here during the Shōwa Period (1926–1989), but the characters used mean “harmonious trading”, rather than “shining harmony” (the meaning of the era name). The number of red banners and paper lanterns with the jinja’s name on suggests that there are local businesses that take their support of this jinja seriously, and it may well have an annual matsuri. It could even be a religious corporation — the land it is built on is probably quite valuable.
Jinja like this tend to disappear from discussions of Shinto, even from mine, because there is not much that can be said about them in general, and almost never enough reason to investigate a single one. (Can you imagine trying to get a grant to study this jinja?) Even if you did investigate one, the results would probably not apply to others. It isn’t even possible to say whether it matters that these jinja are overlooked, because there is no information on how important they are to Shinto practice in contemporary, or historical, Japan.
They are, however, an interesting thing to come across while walking around Tokyo.
Thank you for your pictures and article regarding this urban jinja, David.
There’s something about this that feels so good to see and to read-about.
…Perhaps it’s that even in such a bustling city and a place where land-space is so precious, there is still respect for Nature, gratitude for the Kami, and for the tamashii therein. Especially in that local proprieters also show their respect and gratitude.
Thank you for sharing this!